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    November 19

    11月17日

      火车驶过官厅水库,车窗外,风吹枯树,风吹人难行。
      新保安站下车,在公路边小饭馆吃饭。店面很干净,炒饼两元,鸡蛋西红柿7元。西红柿里加了几片青椒,很河北的做法,我喜欢。
      口音不是太懂,顺着老板指的方向将信将疑地走。遇到一位军人,我说的地名他一问三不知。只是叮嘱我,山上风大,宿营很危险,注意安全。问路不果,索性按照地图的指引,不再打听。
      进山口被采石工地包围,这是开阔地与山地交接处常有的风景。想方设法地躲开随风铺天盖地的灰尘。
      路经山口一间小房,里面人对我喊着什么,大风里什么也听不清。
      
      和运石车一起走在进山公路上,偶尔有摩托和自行车从旁边经过。还好,采石场的灰尘很快被抛在身后。遇到两位步行的村民,走的很慢,在聊天。打听水口山,说,过了黄龙山庄,还要走老远。问,到黄龙山庄多远,还有10来里,一直有公路。心里凉了半截,看来这条山沟已经没有隐秘可以步行丈量了。后来回家以后,在sogou上查了下,原来很详细画出了这条进沟公路。以前觉得sogou地图只画人烟之地,用处不大,现在才明白,知道哪里有人烟,是很重要的。不管是想躲避人烟还是寻找人烟,都是路途之上不可或缺的。
      一路经过三个村子,一个煤矿(一位工人告诉我,过黄龙山庄,上梁,有路通水口山),终于到了一路由路标指引的黄龙山庄。风景一下子清秀起来。山庄前大片的杨树林,在阳光映衬下,寂静地妩媚着。真正的山路,从“京津风沙源治理工程”的牌子开始,哪里有封山育林的标记,哪里才有青山和蓝天。这里同十几里地以外的灰茫茫的尘世,仿佛无关。呼啸的风,吹得心里发毛。心想,不能在山上宿营。
      于是,一边顺着沟上行,一边留意路边的开阔地,以便露宿。在1200米的高度,盘山小径的边上,仿佛一个天然的小窝,静静躺在两棵白桦树间,背靠山壁,面向小径,将可容身。喜不自禁地下包。时光尚早,轻身继续往上走走。约摸半个多小时,来到大平梁下空旷的台地。那梁上,就应该是工人说的通往水口山的山脊路了。这片台地的下面,黄龙山庄的另一片小洋楼赫然在目,一片松树林掩映着小楼,遍山枯黄之中,这一片绿鲜艳欲滴。高草丛生的台地上,散布着几片白桦,美丽的白色树干。熠熠生光。好半天,在犹豫在抵制这些桦树林的诱惑之后,还是决定,不要在这个平坦的大风口担惊受怕地过夜了。
      
      在帐篷里煮熟一碗面,听着外面呼啸的风声,一下子就勾起了那个冬天那些寒冷而甜蜜的回忆。对着筷子上的面,忽然难以下咽。思念,如此突然地袭来。
      
      一弯明亮的月亮,挂在白桦枝头,照亮整个山谷。那些星星,上个礼拜,上上个礼拜,肆无忌惮在山谷上怒放着的星星,羞涩地躲起来。
      温暖的睡袋。几次醒来,听风吹帐篷声,听树枝的嗒嗒声。那些鸟呢?那些白天开心地鸣叫的各种各样的鸟们,在风中的鸟窝里,还好吧。

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